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TRAVEL GUIDE

Only got a few days in sushi central? Want no faff~ no crap, just the best of the best? Well, who's your geisha? Entries are all cherry-picked from the lovely tree and the activities and shopping itineraries are mostly half-day~ so you can mix and match as you please. How convenient is that? So, kimono-ver here and sake to me, baby ...

This is one helluva big town~ but everything you will need to see is reasonably close. Getting around can be a drag and the address system is so confusing that even locals have to call for faxed maps. So, make it easy on yourself, take cabs; no more expensive than london taxis, they take you door-to-door and you get to see the city. Bear in mind drivers rarely speak english, so hire a phone (see very useful) and make friends with your concierge, they~re both worth their weight in platinum.

- if you~re on a budget in Tokyo, you're reading the wrong guide - get your hand on your ha~penny
- unless you have a japan-friendly mobile, hire one (see very useful), you~re going to need it
- have your concierge's number on you at all times
- there are four distinct seasons, jun to sep can be scorching, spring is blossom-ravishing
- avoid new year~s holiday jan 1-3~ golden week In may and obon in aug when the whole joint pretty much shuts down
- avoid the airport ~limousine'; it's actually an unbearably slow bus. Instead~ take the airport train to tokyo station, once there do not altempt to navigate this terrifying warren, just take the nearest exit and hail a cab, they stop just about anywhere
- have your hotel call your destination ahead and have them fax you a map if need be
- most local bank atms do not accept international cards (duh, hello?), citibank accept all cards 24/7 (bless them), post offices also take intl cards, but only during office hours~ mon-fri 9am-5pm
- no need to tip, a smile will do nicely, sir
- in tokyo buildings the 1/f is actually the g/f >- international code for tokyo is +81 3~ prefix
Landlines with 03 when dialled on a mobile
- info call 104 and ask for an english operator >-idd 001010 or 0041010
- police 110~ fire/ambulance 119

Mandarin oriental deluxe central
2-1-1 nihonbashi muromachi / chuo-ku / 32708800/ mandarinorientalcom
Luxury and comfort high above tokyo's cbd, close to ginza. Large, classically chic quarters, flawless service and smart dining: french signature, global fare at k'shiki, food science tapas molecular bar, and slick martini joint mandarin bar. The spa is utterly divine.

Standalone nippon-dusted glamour belle with metro­politan vistas from trim, commodious chambers, gli"tter bites at peter, kaiseki-lovely tsuruya, garden beauty cantonese hei fung terrace and pamper heaven espa. Smack bang in the smart roppongi hills shopping and entertainment complex. Contempo-slinky, but simple digs, plus sultry maduro bar, mean steaks at the oak door, excellent concierge, and serene nagomi spa.

Park Hyatt
3-7-1-2 nishi shinjuku / shinjuku-ku / 5322 1234/tokyo.park. Hyatt.com
Ageing gracefully, this dolly still cuts the mustard, with spacious, sleek rooms, private spa, smart rooftop pool and infamous new york grill restaurant and bar. The location ain't great, but that's what cabs are for.

Park Hotel price wise
Shiodome media tower /1-7-1 higashi / shimbashi / minato-ku / 6252 11 11 / parkhoteltokyo.com
Style-far-dollar, compact city slicker, complete with cult thann bath products, jim jams and professional, pillow fitters for the perfect neck-cushioning ratio. Unwind at the institut de phyto-aromatherapie spa.

The strings by intercontinental tokyo
Shinagawa east one tower / 2-16-1 konan / minato-ku / 5783 1 1 1 1 /stringshotel.com
Good value, slightly out of the way option for bizzy bees with mid-sized sleepers in soothing pale"ttes of olive and mocha, 24hr business centre and free internet access.
Boutique modern take on the traditional inn; natural materials, tatami mats, futons and screens, shared cedar and stone baths, and healthy organic meals.

Staying longer? Roppongi hills residences offer elegant conran-designed apartments only two secs walk from the grand hyatt /64066500/ moriliving.com.

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